The Voltage Regulator
The voltage regulator can be mounted inside or outside of the alternator housing. If the regulator is mounted outside (common on some Ford products) there will be a wiring harness connecting it to the alternator.
The voltage regulator controls the field current applied to the spinning rotor inside the alternator. When there is no current applied to the field, there is no voltage produced from the alternator. When voltage drops below 13.5 volts, the regulator will apply current to the field and the alternator will start charging. When the voltage exceeds 14.5 volts, the regulator will stop supplying voltage to the field and the alternator will stop charging. This is how voltage output from the alternator is regulated. Amperage or current is regulated by the state of charge of the battery. When the battery is weak, the electromotive force (voltage) is not strong enough to hold back the current from the alternator trying to recharge the battery. As the battery reaches a state of full charge, the electromotive force becomes strong enough to oppose the current flow from the alternator, the amperage output from the alternator will drop to close to zero, while the voltage will remain at 13.5 to 14.5. When more electrical power is used, the electromotive force will reduce and alternator amperage will increase. It is extremely important that when alternator efficiency is checked, both voltage and amperage outputs are checked. Each alternator has a rated amperage output depending on the electrical requirements of the vehicle.
Charging system gauge or warning lamp
The charging system gauge or warning lamp monitors the health of the charging system so that you have a warning of a problem before you get stuck.
When a charging problem is indicated, you can still drive a short distance to find help unlike an oil pressure or coolant temperature problem which can cause serious engine damage if you continue to drive. The worst that can happen with a charging system problem is that you get stuck in a bad location.
A charging system warning lamp is a poor indicator of problems in that there are many charging problems that it will not recognize. If it does light while you are driving, it usually means the charging system is not working at all. The most common cause of this is a broken alternator belt.
There are two types of gauges used to monitor charging systems on some vehicles: a voltmeter which measures system voltage and an ammeter which measures amperage. Most modern cars that have gauges use a voltmeter because it is a much better indicator of charging system health. A mechanic’s voltmeter is usually the first tool a technician uses when checking out a charging system
A modern automobile has a 12 volt electrical system. A fully charged battery will read about 12.5 volts when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, the charging system takes over so that the voltmeter will read 14 to 14.5 volts and should stay there unless there is a heavy load on the electrical system such as wipers, lights, heater and rear defogger all operating together while the engine is idling at which time the voltage may drop. If the voltage drops below 12.5, it means that the battery is providing some of the current. You may notice that your dash lights dim at this point. If this happens for an extended period, the battery will run down and may not have enough of a charge to start the car after shutting it off. This should never happen with a healthy charging system because as soon as you step on the gas, the charging system will recharge the battery. If the voltage is constantly below 14 volts, you should have the system checked. If the voltage ever goes above 15 volts, there is a problem with the voltage regulator. Have the system checked as soon as possible as this “overcharging” condition can cause damage to your electrical system.
If you think of electricity as water, voltage is like water pressure, whereas amperage is like the volume of water. If you increase pressure, then more water will flow through a given size pipe, but if you increase the size of the pipe, more water will flow at a lower pressure. An ammeter will read from a negative amperage when the battery is providing most of the current thereby depleting itself, to a positive amperage if most of the current is coming from the charging system. If the battery is fully charged and there is minimal electrical demand, then the ammeter should read close to zero, but should always be on the positive side of zero. It is normal for the ammeter to read a high positive amperage in order to recharge the battery after starting, but it should taper off in a few minutes. If it continues to read more than 10 or 20 amps even though the lights, wipers and other electrical devices are turned off, you may have a weak battery and should have it checked.
What can go wrong?
There are a number of things that can go wrong with a charging system:
If one of the three stator windings failed, the alternator would still charge, but only at two thirds of its normal output. Since an alternator is designed to handle all the power that is needed under heavy load conditions, you may never know that there is a problem with the unit. It might only become apparent on a dark, cold rainy night when the lights, heater, windshield wipers and possible the seat heaters and rear defroster are all on at once that you may notice the lights start to dim as you slow down. If two sets of windings failed, you will probably notice it a lot sooner
It is more common for one or more of the six diodes in the rectifier to fail. If a diode burns out and opens one of the circuits, you would see the same problem as if one of the windings had failed. The alternator will run at a reduced output. However, if one of the diodes were to short out and allow current to pass in either direction, other problems will occur. A shorted diode will allow AC current to pass through to the automobile’s electrical system which can cause problems with the computerized sensors and processors. This condition can cause the car to act unpredictably and cause all kinds of problems.
A voltage regulator is designed to limit the voltage output of an alternator to 14.5 volts or less to protect the vehicle’s electrical system. If the regulator malfunctions and allows uncontrolled voltage to be released, you will see bulbs and other electrical components begin to fail. This is a dangerous and potentially costly problem. Fortunately, this type of failure is very rare. Most failures cause a reduction of voltage or amperage.
Since the rotor is always spinning while the engine is running, there needs to be bearings to support the shaft and allow it to spin freely. If one of those bearings were to fail, you will hear a grinding noise coming from the alternator. A mechanic’s stethoscope can be used to confirm which of the spinning components driven by the serpentine belt is making the noise.
Repairing Charging System Problems
The most common repair is the replacement of the alternator with a new or rebuilt one. A properly rebuilt alternator is as good as a new alternator and can cost hundreds less than purchasing a brand new one.
Labor time to replace an alternator is typically under an hour unless your alternator is in a hard to access location. Most alternators are easily accessible and visible on the top of the engine.
Replacing an alternator is usually an easy task for a backyard mechanic and rebuilt alternators are readily available for most vehicles at the local auto parts store. The most important task for the do-it-yourselfer is to be careful not to short anything out. ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE REPLACING AN ALTERNATOR.
Alternators can be repaired by a knowledgeable technician, but in most cases, it is not economical to do this. Also, since the rest of the alternator is not touched, a repair job is usually not guaranteed.
In some cases, if the problem is diagnosed as a bad voltage regulator, the regulator can be replaced without springing for a complete rebuild. The problem with this is that there will be an extra labor charge for disassembling the alternator in order to get to the internal regulator. That extra cost, along with the cost of the replacement regulator, will bring the total cost close to the cost of a complete (and guaranteed) rebuilt.
This is not the case when the regulator is not inside the alternator. In those cases, the usual practice is to just replace the part that is bad.